9 March 2015
La Garde Républicaine in Paris
white, ivory, linen, beige, yellow, orange, red, firebrick, cornflower blue, royal blue, navy, saddle brown, black
stripes, Hermès Carré pattern
silk, satin, cotton, jersey, wool, knit, velvet, leather, suede, fur, blanket cloth, quilted fabric
leather dungarees, blanket coat, fur pullover
delicate necklaces, neckties, scarfs, belts, monks, knee-high boots
After Christophe Lemaire’s departure, French designer Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski (best-known for her work in Maison Margiela, Celine and, most recently, The Row) opened up a promising new chapter for Hermès, single-handedly shifting old paradigms of ladylike draping, double layering and suede leather trimming. FW15 collection showed off a balanced variety of sharp yet clean-cut wearable designs, heavily referencing shabby chic, fondly mimicking western style and rodeo motifs.
Besides quilted riding jackets, Cybulski’s neatly crafted garment selection featured leatherapron-front jumpsuits, knit roll-neck dresses and oversized poncho coat with wide cape-style sleeves. Surprisingly, hexagon-shaped folding purses, silky-patterned jacquard skirts and signature multicoloured Sangles prints were re-introduced once again.
Clearly, Nadège reinforces the rules of deconstructed feminine silhouette, starting off by ditching mismatching textures and relinquishing disproportions. However, the idea of a truly bold statement is inherently rejected, thus “comfortable-chic” is embraced instead. Although essentially, being bold does not equal beingkitschy or necessarily shocking. Perhaps, it’s a good thing to adopt a non-drastic approach and play it “safe”.
Watch Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski set her ‘back to the roots’ debut at the Fall Winter Hermès runway show that took place on the 9th of March in the Manège des Célestins horse arena of the La Garde Républicaine in Paris.