Hazine

29.11.2015 - Katherine Koniecki

Label

A CENTURY NEW

GRAND IDEAS ARE MEANT TO BE REBORN. THE HOUSE OF VIONNET IS SEEING A SECOND LIFE A HUNDRED YEARS AFTER ITS INCEPTION. A LUXURY RENAISSANCE THAT LEANS CONTEMPORARY, WHILE KEEPING THE ORIGINAL CREATOR’S VALUES SECURELY IN PLACE.

First thrown into the spotlight in the 1900s, a designer by the name of Madeleine Vionnet changed the female form by swapping corsets for a new way of draping cloth and cutting fabric on the bias grain. The revolutionary technique lent itself to a fluid dress form that minimized seam lines. It was a breakthrough that changed women's dress forever and set a place in fashion history books as the “Vionnet cut,” or “la coupe en biais.”

THE ORIGINAL FEMME VIONNET

The original Madame Vionnet was born on June on 22, 1877 in Chilleurs-aux-Bois, France. She had already taken up an apprenticeship at the age of eleven and moved to London shortly after working under the suppliers of the British Royal Family. Returning to France, she took up work with the Callot Soeurs and Jacques Doucet until she established her own fashion house in 1912. She was known to never sketch, opting instead to tactically manipulate fabric by twisting and folding it in unconventional ways. Her bias cut and seamless silhouette was greatly inspired by the lines of movement, as in the motion of the famous contemporary dancer of the time, Isadora Duncan. Grecian gowns were another great inspiration for Vionnet and this influence reappeared in a lavishly modern interpretation for the brand’s Spring/Summer 2016 Paris show. Madeleine Vionnet's label boomed into the 1930s. Art Deco brought to life her sketches and the opulent style merged cohesively with her newly purchased atelier and boutique on Avenue Montagne in Paris. The onset of World War II sadly brought the house of Vionnet to a close in 1939. Still, the short- lived years of her career never veiled Vionnet's place among the greatly respected French fashion houses.

DIAGONAL LINES

The years before the war saw some of the last design accomplishments put in place by the créatrice herself. By 1952 she had donated the majority of her collections to Musée de la Mode et du Textile in Paris, closing shop until she passed away in 1975 at the age of 98 in Paris. The potent history of Vionnet lay dormant until the Lummen Family purchased the brand in 1988. Despite the acquisition, the brand profile lay low and saw a changing number of designers such as Sophia Kokosalki and Mark Audibet pass through the house. In 2007 Matteo Marzotto acquired the label and moved the home base to Milan. Despite the investment, a solid creative team was the missing link in keeping Vionnet’s image in line with the brand's original inception.

DEMI COUTURE FOR A NEW ERA

In 2012, Kazak oligarch Goga Ashkenazi bought a majority stake of Vionnet with an ambitious goal of revitalizing the brand. Ashkenazi's vision for Vionnet merges the collaborative energies of her team, which is made up of Hussein Chalayan, Albino D’Amato and Diego Dolcini. For the fall 2015 collection inspiration, she took her creative team to Iceland and Greenland where they flew a helicopter over an erupting volcano, which manifested the collection’s inspiration. Alongside the brand's revival, Ashkenazi introduced the Demi-Couture concept to Vionnet based on scaling back excessive labour while employing couture fabrics and limited edition orders. The gowns were launched in 2013 as a special celebration to mark 100 years of the historical name.

NEW CHAPTER WITH CHALAYAN

In 2014, Hussein Chalayan was appointed to lead Ashkenazi's Demi-Couture vision alongside the house’s senior design team, Albino D’Amato and Diego Dolcini. Chalayan's artistic eye and architectural approach to design, a vision very much in line with Vionnet’s historically complex cuts, made him the paramount choice. For his opening collection, Chalayan brought to life the idea of beauty in the banal. Electric wires serves as a portion of the collections “Electrified” theme, which he reinterpreted through the striking gowns accentuated plissé technique, another original Vionnet trademark. Chalayan has used the Vionnet cut as a principle to reinterpret the brand by layering multiple bias cuts sheaths which he cut away to reveal the draping technique. A jewelry line evolved from the wiring concept in the same year, a parallel idea that fuses luxury with leather piping and man-made materials to bridge the Vionnet brand from history to contemporary.

Short Facts

Trademark

103 years into the historic brand, the bias cut and plissé construction techniques still remains at the forefront of Vionnet’s aesthetic. Movement and feminine strength remain prominent. 

Distinctiveness

Madeleine Vionnet’s forward-thinking style has remained distinct throughout the revived brand’s language and the design team has diffused each collection with contemporary innovation. 

Awards and Recognition

Vionnet won the 2015 Fashion Advertising Campaign of the Year Award at The Daily Front Row Fashion Media Awards. The campaign featured Vionnet face Anna Cleveland photographed by Dylan Don. 

Timeline

1876 - Born Vionnet

Madeleine Vionnet is born in Chilleurs-aux-Bois, France on June 22.

1912 - First House

Madeleine Vionnet opens her own fashion house in this year and her business grows with momentous success.

1923 - Temple of Fashion

At the height of her success, Vionnet acquires a building on Avenue Montagne in Paris, complete with 21 ateliers and an in-house boutique. The lavish Art Deco interiors designed by French glass sculptor, René Lalique, adorned the space.

1939 - War Torn

The onset of the Second World War causes the unfortunate closure of Madeleine Vionnet’s business.

1952 - Unravel

Madeleine Vionnet donates the majority of her collections from 1921 to 1939 to the Parisian Musée de la Mode et du Textile.

1975 - Iconic Figure

Madeleine Vionnet passes away at the age of 98 in Paris, France. Her famous “coup en bias” remains deeply engrained in the fashion history.

1988 - Lummen Times

The Lummen Family buys out the brand and pursues a low-key developmental approach until the 2006 turnover.

2006 - Changing Eras

While still under the Lummen Family direction, the brand flipped several hands between the years 2006 and 2009. In 2006, Sophia Kokosalki is appointed as the house’s Creative Director, succeeded by Marc Audibet in 2007 and eventually Matteo Marzotto, a new investor who stepped in and purchased the brand.

2009 - Marzotto in Milan

The Matteo Marzotto label acquisition relocates the house to Milan, making some crucial structural changes to the business. 

2012 - Goga

Kazak billionaire business woman Goga Ashkenazi purchases a majority stake in Vionnet. Five months later, she purchases the remaining shares from Marzotto and takes full control of the brand. 

2013 - Golden Century

Vionnet turns 100 years old. A special event to commemorate the historical brand takes place on September 30 with the presentation of a Demi-Couture collection.  

2014 - Chalayan

Hussein Chalayan is appointed Vionnet’s Demi-Couture designer. The brand launches its first advertising campaign shot by iconic photographer Jean-Paul Goude.

2015 - Flagship

Vionnet opens a new flagship store in Paris’ golden triangle, around the corner from Madeleine Vionnet’s first atelier on Avenue Montaigne. The architect Renato Montagner designs the space.

Photo:

@ Imaxtree

Share:

More Portraits

  • Mert & Marcus Photographer Portrait

  • Alexa Chung Fashion People Portrait

  • Ulyana Sergeenko Designer Portrait

  • Veruschka Model Portrait

  • Alber Elbaz Designer Portrait

  • Brigitte Bardot Fashion People Portrait

  • Bottega Veneta Label Portrait

  • Hedi Slimane Designer Portrait

  • Alberta Ferretti Label Portrait

  • Mica Aganaraz Model Portrait

  • Gianvito Rossi Label Portrait

  • Olivia Palermo Fashion People Portrait

  • Vanessa Moody Model Portrait

  • Humberto Leon & Carol Lim Designer Portrait

  • Sarah Harris Fashion People Portrait

  • Bouchra Jarrar Designer Portrait

  • Loewe Label Portrait

  • Odette Pavlova Model Portrait

  • Céline Label Portrait

  • Alexander Wang Designer Portrait

  • Phillip Lim Portrait

  • Eva Chen Fashion People Portrait

  • Cartier Label Portrait

  • Karl Lagerfeld Designer Portrait

  • Anna dello Russo Fashion People Portrait

  • Jürgen Teller Photographer Portrait

  • Adriana Lima Model Portrait

  • Victoria Beckham Label Portrait

  • Giovanna Battaglia Fashion People Portrait

  • Mario Testino Photographer Portrait

  • Demna Gvasalia Portrait

  • Daria Werbowy Model Portrait

  • Mary Katrantzou Designer Portrait

  • Suzy Menkes Fashion People Portrait

  • Oscar de la Renta Designer Portrait

  • Naomi Campbell Model Portrait

  • Annie Leibovitz Photographer Portrait

  • J.W. Anderson Designer Portrait

  • Lineisy Montero Model Portrait

  • Azzedine Alaïa Designer Portrait

  • Phoebe Philo Designer Portrait

  • Anna Wintour Fashion People Portrait

  • Alexandra Elizabeth Ljadov Model Portrait

  • Stella McCartney Label Portrait

  • Kendall Jenner Model Portrait

  • Patrick Demarchelier Photographer Portrait

  • Lanvin Label Portrait

  • Rick Owens Designer Portrait

  • Ruth Bell Model Portrait

  • Raf Simons Designer Portrait

  • Caroline de Maigret Fashion People Portrait

  • Proenza Schouler Label Portrait

  • Scott Schuman Photographer Portrait

  • Joan Smalls Model Portrait

  • Alessandro Michele Designer Portrait

  • Chanel Label Portrait

  • Elena Perminova Model Portrait

  • Twiggy Model Portrait

  • Louis Vuitton Label Portrait

  • Jamie Bochert Model Portrait

  • Alexander Mcqueen Designer Portrait

  • Rihanna Fashion People Portrait

  • Olivier Rousteing Designer Portrait

  • Hanne Gaby Odiele Model Portrait

  • Dries Van Noten Label Portrait

  • Yohji Yamamoto Label Portrait

  • Gareth Pugh Label Portrait

  • Anna Piaggi Fashion People Portrait

  • Comme des Garçons Label Portrait

  • Tilda Swinton Fashion People Portrait

  • Jil Sander Label Portrait

  • Steven Meisel Photographer Portrait

  • Linda Evangelista Model Portrait

  • Claudia Schiffer Portrait

  • Lady Amanda Harlech Fashion People Portrait

  • Georgia May Jagger Model Portrait

  • Saint Laurent Label Portrait

  • Gigi Hadid Model Portrait

  • The Row Label Portrait

  • Eres Label Portrait

  • Helmut Newton Photographer Portrait

  • Yves Saint Laurent Designer Portrait

  • Kate Moss Model Portrait

  • Anthony Vaccarello Label Portrait

  • Francois-Henri Pinault Fashion People Portrait

  • Inès de la Fressange Fashion People Portrait

  • Acne Studios Label Portrait

  • Miroslava Duma Fashion People Portrait

  • Ellen von Unwerth Photographer Portrait

  • Jeremy Scott Designer Portrait

  • Alexander McQueen Label Portrait

  • Carine Roitfeld Portrait

  • Diana Vreeland Fashion People Portrait

  • Inez & Vinoodh Photographer Portrait

  • Anna Ewers Portrait

  • Haider Ackermann Label Portrait

  • Cara Delevigne Portrait

  • Nicolas Ghesquiere Designer Portrait

  • Miranda Kerr Portrait

  • Dolce & Gabbana Label Portrait

  • Hermès Label Portrait

  • Balenciaga Label Portrait

  • Marc Jacobs Designer Portrait

  • Valentino Label Portrait

  • Moschino Label Portrait

  • Marni Label Portrait

  • Kenzo Label Portrait

  • Isabel Marant Label Portrait

  • Marc Jacobs Label Portrait

  • Gucci Label Portrait

  • Christian Dior Label Portrait

  • Balmain Label Portrait

  • Chloe Label Portrait

Latest

  • Stepping Down News

  • Instant Throwback Trend

  • Chanel SS17

  • Hermes SS17

  • Acne Studios SS17

  • Christian Dior SS17

  • Loewe SS17

  • Rick Owens SS17

  • Balmain SS17

  • Dries Van Noten SS17

Follow

Take away