Hazine

24.02.2015 - Kirsty Reid

Label

FOR THE FUN OF IT

WITH A FOOT FORWARD INTO THE ZANY AND OUTRAGEOUS, 1983 SAW THE LAUNCH OF A CLASSICALLY ITALIAN BRAND, MOSCHINO, BY ITS FOUNDER FRANCO MOSCHINO. SINCE THEN, MOSCHINO’S COLLECTIONS HAVE BEEN THE TOPIC OF GREAT DEBATE, PROVOKING REACTIONS WITH THE PUBLIC DUE TO THEIR CONTROVERSIAL INSPIRATION. CHANGING CREATIVE DIRECTORS OVER THE YEARS HAS SPARKED DIFFERENT LOOKS AND APPROACHES FOR THE BRAND WITH THE CURRENT DIRECTOR JEREMY SCOTT BEING NO EXCEPTION.

Appointed in October, Jeremy Scott wasted no time in settling into his new role at Moschino by starting to prepare the Fall-Winter collection the very next month. He kept the Moschino philosophy that beauty and elegance can be at the essence of an also light hearted collection. He played with a Flintstones and a super hero notion within the collections, mimicking Franco Moschino’s concept of using Indian chief headdresses and Mickey Mouse ears as model props. Franco has never been one to follow the crowd. Trends fell by the way side to make room for him to create the trends themselves. Moschino is rivaled for its sass and wit in a world where Italian fashion is so often synonymous with sophistication and seduction.

THE VERSACE EFFECT

Born in 1950 in an industrial town close to Milan, Franco Moschino’s creative talent was prevalent at a very young age. Before his father’s death, Franco would create dust patterns on the floor in the iron foundry his father ran. Growing up, he then went to study at an art school in Milan, whilst designing for fashion houses and magazines in order to finance his tuition. It was at this time that Gianni Versace, who himself was designing for multiple Italian fashion houses, took an interest in Franco’s work and had him draw for the publicity campaigns. This break into mainstream opened up a world of opportunities for Franco, designing for Cadette and later freelancing for Italian ready-to-wear houses.

He launched Moschino Couture in 1983, and by his second show, his surrealistic ideas were known the world over, establishing Moschino as playful and contemptuous. The concept was founded on a belief that fashion doesn’t need to be so serious, and that women should wear what they want, not what they should. His early collections featuring cow prints and question marks, contained ironic and satirical creations such as a belt that read “Waist of money.” The brand Moschino Couture featured mostly evening wear, shoes and lingerie, but also included a small jeans and casual wear section. 1988 saw the launch of Moschino’s second line Moschino Cheap and Chic.

Going from strength to strength, the brand subsequently launched Moschino Jeans (now known as Love Moschino) and the Ecouture Collection. The Ecouture Collection would be Franco’s last feat, a collection featuring only environmentally friendly materials, which he worked on until his death in 1994. Rossella Jardini, a family friend and collaborator at Moschino, took over the reins and launched boutiques all over the world. By 1999 the Moschino labels became Moschino S.p.A and a part of the Aeffe S.p.A group as it is still today.

CONTINUED SUCCESS

Jeremy Scott is the most recent head designer for Moschino. American born, his ideas and notions are entirely in sync with both those of Franco and Jardini. Toying with his own sense of humour and conserving the legacy of Franco Moschino, Scott has proved his place at Moschino from the very start. He embellishes his shows in the style of Franco with for example bales of dollars thrown into the audience printed with his face. The title of the show was “American Excess.”

 

Who wears it

Short Facts

Trademark

Moschino is characterized by a sense of irony, one which sets it apart from not only Italian fashion houses but fashion houses worldwide, playing with the high spirited nature of fashion without compromising on style and efficiency. Cut to the highest standards and wholly wearable, Moschino mixes classic styles with visually artistic puns.

Distinctiveness

Moschino is a specialist for fast fashion. A part of the collection is available online as soon as the first model steps onto the catwalk. Bloggers and fashion editors are wearing the pieces even before the show.

Designer History

1983 - 1994 Franco Moschino
1994 – 2013 Rossella Jardini
2013 – Present Jeremy Scott

Designers History

Timeline

1983 - Moschino is born

After years of freelance designing for other Italian fashion houses including Cadette, Franco Moschino launches a Spring-Summer collection under his own name. The show debut is in Milan.

1988 - Progression

After launching his first menswear collection in Milan, Moschino starts with his Cheap and Chic line for Fall-Winter. Moschino Jeans and the first fragrance that launched during the previous two years (1986 and 1987 respectively) are flourishing.

1994 - Rossella Jardini takes over

After opening boutiques in Milan and producing the Ecouture collection, Franco Moschino dies and Rossella Jardini is appointed creative director. During her leadership, Moschino boutiques are opened worldwide, including London and Japan.

2006 - Diversification

The brand Moschino is commissioned to design the costumes for the sign bearers at the Winter Olympics in Turin. The following year, Moschino launches its first eyewear collection.

2010 - Hospitality

The hotel “Maison Moschino” is opened in Milan. 

2013 - A fresh approach

Jeremy Scott is appointed new creative director of Moschino. His intentions for the brand are pure and in keeping with those of the founder. The reception of his first collection is overwhelming and he is received as being a perfect fit for the brand.

Photo:

©Imaxtree

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