Hazine

27.03.2016 - Katherine Koniecki

Label

LOEWE'S SPANISH LEAD

LOEWE CONJURES A SOPHISTICATION THAT RUNS DEEP BENEATH ITS SPANISH ANCESTRY. THE HOUSE HAS SUPPLIED THE SPANISH ROYAL FAMILY AND THE ATHLETIC ELITE. WITH AN ARCHIVE THAT SPANS 170 YEARS, THE BRAND HAS BEEN TURNING OVER WITH A LIGHTER DIRECTION TO MIX REVELED ODDITY IN WITH THE HISTORY TALKS.

With a crowning luxury lead that dates back to Madrid in 1846, German entrepreneur Enrique Loewe Roessberg set the brand in motion. Iconic names like Goya and Joan Miró belong to Loewe’s identity; the masters of Spanish classical art are many. 2013 marked an important brand turnover with the hire of Creative Director Jonathan Anderson and he has voraciously been driving Loewe’s legacy forward to mix new leather accessories, like the Goya bag, with his purist aesthetic to sway over the modern day high court.

ROYALTY TO REDUCTION

Leather is at the heart of Loewe’s identity and iguana, crocodile and snake have supplied the Spanish Royal Family with luxury skins since the 19th century. The century spread has cast multiple iconic handbag styles and the 1975 Amazona bag was crafted by Spain’s masters of leather, many of whom are still with the house today. Like the Amazona’s perfectly crafted unlined suede interior, Loewe’s forward thinking 50’s and 60’s retail and showroom spaces were designed by a great mind with radical ideas, architect Javier Carvajal. The intrinsically modern forms have been mirrored in Jonathan Anderson’s vision for the brand moving forth. By reducing the design elements down to a pure form, he is creating new house codes while keeping Loewe’s luxury values close to the core.

UNITED CONSTELLATION

Loewe’s brand constellation is deeply embedded in Spanish culture. Sport, poetry, photo, dance and architecture make up the structure of the Loewe Foundation that was set up in 1988 as an avenue to promote the arts. Luxury in the streets holds an important part of the time lapse and photographic exhibitions are regularly held in the Galeria space of Loewe’s Madrid flagship. The Sartorialist, Scott Schuman, collaborated with the brand in a special exhibition within the space, which aligned his photographic street zeitgeist with Loewe’s modern mind. The first U.S. flagship opened in Miami’s Design District in 2015 and the interior was built with the stone skeleton of an 18th century barn, which was imported and integrated as a vital piece of Spanish identity within the retail interior.

ARCHIVING EVOLUTION

Loewe’s lineup of Creative Directors has evolved with the venerable brand. 1945 boomed under the lead of José Pérez de Rozas, who established Loewe as a creative powerhouse through his vanguard vision. Spearheaded by a decision to drive an accessory rich comeback, LVMH acquired Loewe in 2006 and the buyout spun a series of changes to reposition the brand as a luxury leader. ‘Tales of Spain’ was launched in 2013 to revive the brand with a marketable youthful optimism from the 70’s and 80’s archive of scarves that carry a print-heavy silk trademark. The same year swept in a changing look for Loewe with a new logo, packaging and colouring to mark a turning point under Jonathan Anderson’s direction. His collections have been praised for a redefinition through a union of strangeness and heritage. Still heavily swayed by the artisanal lineage that stems from the brand’s Spanish roots, Anderson keeps a sharp eye for handcrafted textiles. Loewe’s Fall 2016 collections showed an Amazona handbag, quilted linens and cubist carved cat head pendants. He ignites the line to bring Picasso shapes and Joan Miró murals of far reaching mastery closer than ever, but he’s doing so a little rougher and odder to bring a life to Loewe that was never known before.

Short Facts

Trademark

Leather and silk have been Loewe’s main domain since the mid 19th century and the LVMH brand acquisition in 2006 has reinstated leather luxury accessories as Loewe’s trademark mainstay.

Distinctiveness

Identity and values create a distinctive base for the Spanish brand, from the classic artistic mastery of Picasso, Goya and Velázquez, to esteemed architect Javier Carvajal. United with the brands’ Loewe Foundation, the arts both old and new drive Loewe’s distinctly modern identity.

Timeline

1846 - Leather House

Loewe is established as a leather artisan cooperative in the centre of Madrid.

1872 - German Lead

Loewe gains its name as an establishment of owner and German entrepreneur, Enrique Loewe Roessberg.

1945 - Madrid Boom

Loewe’s merchandising and visual identity booms under the direction of José Pérez de Rozas, the brand’s Creative Director until 1978.

1965 - Ready to Wear

The house creates the first ready to wear line. 1970 - Anagram. The creation of the intertwined “L” Loewe anagram by Vincente Vela becomes an important marking for the brand’s commercial success.

1970 - Anagram

The creation of the intertwined “L” Loewe anagram by Vincente Vela becomes an important marking for the brand’s commercial success.

1975 - Amazona

Loewe’s leather master craftsmen create an iconic unlined suede handbag style called the Amazona.

1983 - American Crossing

Loewe leather is shown for the first time in America.

1988 - Culture Foundation

Fourth generation family member Enrique Loewe Lynch establishes the Loewe Foundation with a goal to promote the arts.

1996 - LVMH

Loewe is acquired by luxury holding company LVMH.

1997 - Rodriguez

The brand appoints Narciso Rodriguez as Design Director.

2007 - Vevers

Former Mulberry design director Stuart Vevers takes on the helm as Creative Director of Loewe.

2010 - New Face

Daria Werbowy becomes the new face of Loewe for the Spring/Summer 2010 campaign shot by Inez Van Lamsweerde & Vinoodh Matadin.

2011 - Image Heritage

As part of PHotoEspaña 2011, Loewe sponsors a retrospective exhibition by American sixties celebrity photographer Ron Galella.

2012 - The Sartorialist

Loewe pairs up with Scott Schuman, the Sartorialist, for a special photography exhibition at the Loewe store in Madrid.

2013 - Anderson

Jonathan Anderson is appointed Creative Director and he leads the house’s rebrand.

2015 - Miami

Loewe’s first U.S. store opens in Miami’s Design District. The space holds a 19th century Spanish stone barn that was imported as part of the interior architecture.

2016 - Miró

Loewe’s Fall 2016 show takes place in the Joan Miró room at UNESCO and the collection is met with rave reviews. Anderson continues to reshape and challenge the brand.

Photo:

© Imaxtree

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