Hazine

05.04.2015 - Carmen Crommelin

Label

THE LABEL ON EVERYONES LIPS

THE AVANT-GARDE HERO LABEL HAIDER ACKERMANN TRAVELS THROUGH THE MORE SUBTLE SENSUALITIES OF WOMEN, CLEVER DRAPERY HIDES AND REVEALS, MUTED COLOURS AND TEXTURAL FABRICS CREATE AN EXOTIC LANDSCAPE THAT’S READY TO WEAR.

Ackermann’s contemporaries say he could be the next Yves Saint Laurent and it’s not just his publicity shy temperament they are talking about. Dedicated followers cite Ackermann’s master drapery, perfection within intricate detailing and elongated silhouettes as reasons enough to fall for this label, but his contemporary outlook on the female form complete with its life, drama and movement is what really puts this label on the map. Without pertaining to the influence behind his work, it has been said the inspired collections are a result of his heritage and colourful upbringing. Born in Colombia and adopted to French parents, Ackermann was raised traveling through Algeria, Chad and Ethiopia with studies in Europe including the famed Royal Academy of Arts in Antwerp.

A PERFECTIONIST

Ackermanns commitment to perfection was not always smooth sailing, in 1997 after three years of study he was expelled from Antwerp for failing to complete his assignments. Raf Simons stated on Ackermann as a student that, "[Haider] never graduated because he couldn't finish his collections. If he had to do five silhouettes, he would only do three. But they were the best".

Despite this, in 1998 Ackermann worked for John Galliano as an apprentice for five months before moving on to designers such as Bernhard Willhelm, Patrick Van Ommeslaeghe, Mayerline and former academy teacher Wim Neels. In 2002 Haider Ackermann the label was born with the support and encouragement of friends and acquaintances, Raf Simons amongst them. His first self-financed collection was debuted in Paris but not without teething issues. Still naïve to Industry rules Ackermann’s first collection was shown without buyers present. Fortunately for the label, its impact was so tremendous that press caught wind of the new talent, landing him on the racks in plum position at Colette in Paris, Corso Como in Milan and Louis in Antwerp.

AN INDEPENDENT MIND

Much speculation around his name has made fashion news over the years of directing his own label, with rumours circling on head designer positions at both Dior and Margiela. Nobody could expect to hear Karl Lagerfeld’s illustrious words stating that if he was to ever step down from the helm of Chanel, the Colombian designer would be his ideal successor. Modernity, his perpetuating philosophy of the ‘unfinished’ and his unique play with femininity inspires an outpouring of adoration, not just from Karl but also his loyal wearers. A loyalty he reflects by staying with his label.

Short Facts

Trademark

Texture, layers and master drapery resulting in crisp edges and smooth silhouettes are signature looks for Haider Ackermann. Muted colour palettes, dramatic shows and a sense of the exotic leave this label on the mind.

Distinctiveness

Even with wide spread fame Haider Ackermann still holds a rarefied illusiveness. Cult like followers made up of intellectuals make its wearers as Avant Garde as its collections.

Designer History

2001 - Present Haider Ackermann

Who wears it?

Timeline

1998 - Interning with the greats

Before creating his own label, Ackermann begins a five month internship at John Galliano to build up his portfolio over the next few years.

2002 – Calculated Risk

Ackermann privately funds his first collection, Autumn Winter in Paris. The risk pays off with an overwhelming positive reaction is received and orders received from the top boutiques in Europe.

2003 - Ackermann works hard

 Ackerman guest designs two collections for premium leather specialist Ruffo Research whilst developing his own label.

2004 - Award

Haider Ackermann is awarded the prestigious Swiss Textiles Award.

2005 - Back to Paris

Ackermann re-locates to Paris, setting up his studio. He also signs up with Belgian group BVBA 32 and gains financial backing for his label.

2010 - Compliments from Karl

Ackermann receives the most valued compliment from Karl Lagerfeld, naming him the one possible successor for his job at Chanel if he were ever to leave. In the same year, Ackermann launches his first menswear collection.

2011 - Vogue! Vogue!

Lady Gaga appears on the front cover of American Vogue wearing Haider Ackermann. Vogue’s André Leon Talley names Ackermann as the rising star of the fashion industry. The label reaches past its existing audience and into bigger league.

2012 - Vogue and major success once again

Caroline Trentini wears a Haider Ackermann outfit for the cover of Vogue Magazine. In the same year, Ackermann is honoured by Fashion Group International where Karl Lagerfeld presented Ackermann with the International award.

2013 - The future

Since launching his namesake collection in 2002, designer Haider Ackermann has experienced a spectacular rise to become one of the most celebrated and highly-acclaimed designers in the industry and eager fans anticipate what there is to come in the future.

Photo:

© Imaxtree, GettyImages

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