Hazine

27.05.2015 - Jessica Marrazzo

Label

Finding the Balance

ATTENTION TO DETAIL IS KEY TO ANTHONY VACCARELLO, COMPLETE WITH A BALANCE OF DIVERSE INFLUENCES. BASED IN PARIS, THE BRAND DRAWS INSPIRATION FROM VARIOUS EUROPEAN CULTURES AND TRADITIONS, CHOOSING TO EXALT THE FEMALE FIGURE IN ALL ITS FORMS, ADDING A DARK TOUCH OF FEISTY PERSONALITY ALONG THE WAY.

Anthony Vaccarello is a relatively recent arrival on the international fashion scene. With a background in sculpture and fashion design, the young designer spent two years designing for Fendi with Karl Lagerfeld before launching his own brand in 2008. To do so, he moved to Paris with his long-term boyfriend and fellow designer Arnaud Michaux. 

A CLEAR VISION

Right from the start, the brand’s style was both sleek and loaded with sex-appeal. Vaccarello himself often refers to his own heritage emerging in his designs, combining sharp Italian tailoring with the freedom of Belgian innovation. In January 2009, he presented his first branded collection to a selected audience in the Parisian boutique, Maria Luisa. It consisted of five mini-skirts crafted from organza and leather in dark hues, captivating the fashion press in an instant. It was an erotic, minimal and contemporary mix, a fusion and visual representation of the creative director’s background in sculpture and fashion. Despite the strong economic crisis that had hit the world at the time, many renowned fashion department stores began to buy from the collection, providing the brand with a network of international contacts to spread the brand’s message and contemporary aesthetic.

However, it was a few special connections in Paris that started the buzz around the company. Striking models such as Lou Dillon and Karlie Kloss became close friends with Vaccarello himself, choosing to model for his look books and enlisting their model friends to walk with them for his catwalk shows. The hype around the brand continued to be noticed by the media. Bloggers such as Susie Bubble started to talk about the brand, highlighting a design ethos that radically contrasts with his contemporaries. Each season brings with it a new level of expectation, as different design collaborations and diverse directions bring a new flavour to the table.

Anthony Vaccarello with supermodel supporter and friend Anja Rubik.

AN ICONIC STYLE

Leather has always been a favourite in the house of Vaccarello, challenging the designers to create something fluid out of a structured fabric. It’s an element that has transformed from masculine jackets and sharp accessories to slinky dresses that twist across the body. Taking inspiration from the work of Pierre Soulages, black is also a recurring theme within the collections. Revealing cuts are balanced with radical structures, altering the natural centre of balance to create a new silhouette. The dark colour palette highlights the flashes of bare skin, creating a peek-a-boo effect across the entire figure. Other times, the design team uses flashes of vibrant solid colours, adding a splash of vivid yellow or orange into the mix. Even throughout the latest collections, there is a certain intimacy in the design work. At the time that the Spring Summer 15 collection was launched, Vaccarello’s design team consisted of just 4 people. Each piece is hand draped across the mannequin, working with the natural drape and movement within each fabric used. More recently, prints have been incorporated into the collections – perhaps the influence of the creative director’s recent contributions to the Versus by Versace label. In many ways, these are still early days for the brand. There is much to be discovered, refined and highlighted: it’s a journey that the designers invite us to follow, exploring the journey together.

Short Facts

Trademark

Leather is an essential material within the brand’s collections, made complete with a dark colour palette that mainly consists of jet blacks and navy blues. 

Distinctiveness

Anthony Vaccarello is renowned for a mix of unexpected contrasts. Tailoring meets drape in an eternal romance, bringing a touch of masculinity to a soft element.

Designer History

2008 – present   Anthony Vaccarello

Who wears it?

Timeline

2008 - A brave beginning

After starting his personal career at Fendi under the guidance of Karl Lagerfeld, Anthony Vaccarello moves to Paris to launch his own brand. He decides to start the company during the middle of a global financial crisis, seeing a gap in the market for his own unique style.

 

2009 - Select audience

Following the Haute Couture fashion week, Vaccarello presents his first branded collection in Maria Luisa, a Parisian boutique. He presented five leather and organza mini-skirts, catching the attention of the press with innovative silhouettes and constructions. Leather soon becomes one of his favourite materials to work with, featuring heavily in his later work.

 

2011 - National acclaim

Vaccarello won the Association Nationale pour le Developpement des Arts de la Mode (ANDAM) fashion award, honouring the brand’s innovation in creative direction over a relatively short period of time. The same year, the brand showcases its Autumn Winter 11-12 collection at Paris Fashion Week, featuring in the event for the first time.

 

2015 - Design fusion

Designer Anthony Vaccarello is also appointed to the role of Creative Director for the Versus by Versace brand. The influence of the design collaboration begins to show through in his own house, bringing with it striking prints and subtle flashes of colour.

 

Photo:

© Getty, Imaxtree

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