Hazine

29.04.2015 - Aisling O'Leary

Designer

Great Scott

MISUNDERSTOOD BY MANY, LOVED BY MORE, DESIGNER JEREMY SCOTT HAS DELIVERED US WITH GROUNDBREAKING FASHION OVER THE PAST 15 YEARS. FROM TIME TO TIME SCOTT HAS BEEN SCRUTINIZED DUE TO HIS JOCULAR TAKE ON FASHION. REGARDLESS OF THE FEEDBACK AND CRITIQUE, THE DESIGNER BELIEVES IN WHAT HE DOES AND THAT SEEMS TO BE ALL HE NEEDS. HIS SUCCESSFUL CAREER IS EVIDENCE ENOUGH.

Scotts style is very progressive, youthful and yet antagonistic. His infantile designs emblazoned with playful icons such as Spongebob, Barbie and Mc Donalds continue to challenge expectations. His view is so diverse and with this, the collections vary from sports inspired looks, to colourful punk, to flower power and West Coast skater doodling. Jeremy Scott has over the years, implemented himself into Pop Culture, dressing the pop world’s elite such as Katy Perry, Kanye West, Rita Ora and the queen Madonna.

FARM BOY GOES TO THE BIG APPLE

The young Jeremy Scott grew up on a livestock farm in rural America. Born in 1974 and raised in Missouri, son of teacher and civil engineer, Jeremy knew he wanted to work in fashion. Once he graduated high school, Scott moved to Brooklyn, New York, where he studied Fashion Design at the Pratt Institute. Quickly, he realized it would be a lot harder than anticipated. While he was new to the whole “fashion thing”, his peers were able to sow, draw and execute. He had a lot of catching up to do.

Three months after graduating Pratt, Scott relocated to Paris where he planned on getting an internship at any fashion house he admired and respected, Gaultier being top of his list. Unfortunately, this was easier said than done. The hopeful enthusiast ended up drifting from place to place, staying with friends with no great prospect. Eventually, the young designer picked himself up and decided to put a collection together and showcase it without the help of the big guns. He scavenged for material he could use for pieces, ultimately using hospital gowns, scraps of fabric from the flea market and garbage bags. He took thrifting to a whole new level. “I grew up with the idea that things should never be wasted”, Jeremy said, “that they could always be altered from their intended use”. With the help of friends, Jeremy Scott had his first show, in a bar.

PUNK MEETS RAINBOW

In just a few years after his debut in that bar near the Bastille, the outlandish designer was thriving. He was becoming more and more famous within fashions younger generation. When the senior greats like Anna Wintour, Karl Lagerfeld and André Leon Talley got wind of this new up and coming designer, they all made sure to attend his next show. Jeremy Scott’s ‘The White Collection’ for Spring 2003 received much adoration. Expecting a somewhat similar style for his next show, the heat was on. However, what people didn’t realize is that Scott has no set style. He comes up with something new and equally controversial every single show. With this, many disapproved of his Spring 2004 show, namely ‘Sexybition’. Comments were made, for example André Leon Talley stated Jeremy Scott should “never design again”. Scott was banned from Style.com from 2003 up until fall 2010. His label was considered too sexually provocative and unacceptably trashy. This debacle was but a mere hiccup on Scotts road to success. The designer was going onwards and upwards, improving his skills and developing his style for the future.

Once, only an intern at Moschino, Scott is now the third ever creative director at Moschino. Scott’s wry sense of humour is well suited for the label and he has proven to be the perfect match for the brand. The rebellious designer has a similar outlook on fashion as the original designer and founder of Moschino, Franco Moschino. His tongue in cheek approach to fashion has gotten him into trouble over the years, but it has also cultivated a huge fan base, embedding him into the industry. You either hate him or you love him, but one thing’s for sure; Jeremy Scott is a success.

Short Facts

Trademark

Even though Jeremy Scott has no ‘set style’, he has a preference for the symbols of American consumer culture. He perfected this proclivity during the last years at Moschino with acclaimed appearances of Sponge Bob, Barbie or the Looney Tunes.

Distinctiveness

As the master of bad taste and irony, he is either loved or hated, but always noticed.

Anecdote

Once, during an interview Scott claimed, in jest, that if he hadn’t become a designer he would have become a Popstar.  However, once while Scott was sitting front row at a Rihanna concert, the singer climber off stage, sat on his lap and aimed the mic towards him to join along. The designer froze and couldn’t even sing one line.

Awards

1996 and 1997   The Venus de la Mode Award for “Best Designer of the Year”.
1999   Nominated by CFDA for “Best Young Designer”.
2004   Jeremy Scott was appointed #32 in the top 100 most powerful in fashion by The Face Magazine.

Timeline

1974 – Zany in Missouri

Born and raised on a farm, Scott is the youngest of three. From a young age, he is devoted to fashion and vows to make it in the fashion industry.

1992 – The big move

Jeremy Scott moves to New York City where he studies ‘Fashion Design’ at the Pratt Institute in Brooklyn. During his college years, Scott develops his own, personal and eccentric style. He learned how to draw, tailor and make patterns.

1996 – The even bigger move

After graduating, he moves to Paris and intends on getting an internship with a designer he respects. Regrettably, Scott is unable to work anywhere due to the ‘closed door situation’ in Paris. Not even picking up pins off the floor. It’s a tumultuous time for him and he is practically homeless. In ’97 the young talent decides to use all his available resources and puts together a show for his own, very first collection.

2001 – Showbiz in LA

After achieving what he wanted in Paris, Scott decides to move to LA for a new adventure. His fascination with pop culture and the entertainment industry is what prompts him to make the move. His collections are lucrative and break through comfort zones. Eventually, Scott takes it too far with his Spring 2004 collection. The collection was too risqué and the show was explicit, looking almost like a brothel combined with a strip club. Other fashion designers and editors are shocked and appalled by his so-called “fashion”. Karl Lagerfeld, once a huge fan of Scott, claimed, “Jeremy Scott has become like a cartoon”. Fashion critics stay clear of him and some refuse to review his work.

2008 – Sneakers and sportswear

The designer collaborates with Adidas on an apparel and footwear line. The collection is mostly popular in the urban community. The most successful items are the winged high-tops and dollar bill fabric designs. Despite the sell-out success, in 2012 one item has been taken off the market: sneakers with shackles. The shoe has a striking resemblance to the shackles stemming from slavery. Scott denies the link people have made.

2012 – The resurrection

Moschino hires Scott as a designer for the label. With him, global sales rise a significant 14%, resurrecting the quiescent brand. He doesn’t just bring it back to life; Moschino is now thriving.

2015 – The people’s designer

Scott announces on Instagram that he is working on a documentary of his work and life, directed by Vlad Yudin. It is due to release in fall of this year.

Photo:

© Getty Images

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