WE REVEL IN THE LOOSER DAYS WHEN LATE DUSK AND EARLY DAWN SWIVEL WITH THIS SEASON’S EASY GOING TAKE ON TAILORING. ELEMENTAL MINIMAL RESTS ITS BASE WITH HINTS OF THE PAST WHEREBY TUCKS, FOLDS AND WRAPS CREATE THE FORM FITTING ELEMENTS THAT BALANCE MODERNITY WITH PRIMORDIAL TAILORED CRAFT.
Christopher Kane’s buffered and bonded straps relinquish conventional closures and simplify his suiting. A single strap crosses one look’s blazer with a certainty that affirms buttons can fall out as though they were a thing of the past. Keeping up with the singularity of minimalistic mode, one element can matt down the sheen of leather and vinyl through the consistent clean of downplayed details. Clarity in form, Kane’s experimental fingers folded rather than cut to raise this collection’s standout detail: the double lined baby pink and black fabric, architecturally slanted to construct his dresses’ diamond-cut window. As in Jason Wu’s Pre-Fall wears, double faced fabric was folded rather than seamed, easing up the distracting lines to extend the lapel’s seamless silence. J.W Anderson hit a modern tailor’s stride with sleeve and leg cuffs that fell loose, not narrow. Arms and waists were cinched at Dior, under Raf Simons’ spell tailored bodices were knit and unpredictability rose through simplicity - seams were not cut, but created through an effect of puckers and folds. Prada paid school days a visit and the short came back in a current day brogue-tailored twist; bowties doubled as dress epaulets and a double-drafted collar flexed another curve: Prada’s mixing of girls with the boys in a single show crossed this season’s singularity and modernity with a clear cut ease.