NO FINER COULD KARL LAGERFELD CHOOSE TO DISPLAY HIS DECADENT GEMS THAN IN THE HOOPLA OF THE BRASSERIE’S SOCIAL SPHERE. NEVER TOO CLOSE FOR COMFORT AT PARIS’ FINEST BRASSERIE GABRIELLE INSIDE PARIS’ GRAND PALAIS FOR FALL/WINTER 2015, THE SET WAS A PERFECT PROMPT FOR THE INTIMATE INSPECTION OF THIS SEASON’S THICKLY LAYERED CHANEL JEWELS.
Who would have suspected resin as the explicit binder to mold Chanel’s diamante encrusted cuffs, for which close-up was the right fixative to amorously mend costume and jewelry under the house’s collection of fully embezzled necks and wrists. It was the full skimming chokers that paid an ode to Karl’s love for collars; diamantes in lieu of Edwardian ruffles matched this collection’s Victorian finesse with the dripping decadence of all gemmed romantics.
Long-lived delicate details did prevail in the form of Chanel’s tiny jeweled monogram tucked among the pendant’s pearls, which also hung off the back of Edie Campbell’s wide brimmed jeweled collar. The choker of yesterday transformed the spirit of Victoriana as a standout piece that ornamented the neck in full rows of glass pearls, metal and diamantes. On par with the brasserie’s mild air of bourgeoisie, the collection’s knits grounded the lavish gems from tipping over the cusp. Geometrically arranged pendants were strung and layered upon a full torso skimming strings of pearls to meet the brass metal medallion wrapped around the hips. Crested broaches crowned belt buckles and the symmetry of the jewels’ arrangement extended stability into the house’s long lived coat of arms. The brasserie wouldn’t be quite so perfectly Parisian without Coco’s ode to the bowtie which, also diamante encrusted strung on a choker-close velvet strap. Ropes of pink pearls swung across the shoulders like a harness that under every guise would hold the audacity to weave among the socialites and the brasserie’s tightly bound talks.