Hazine

01.08.2015 - Katherine Koniecki

Trends

CLEAN CUT FUTURE

WE NOW SPEAK ABOUT THE FUTURE AS AN AFTERTHOUGHT. VISIONS OF FORWARD THINKING FASHION CONJURE UP A SCI-FI WEB OF TECHNICAL TEXTILES AND GALACTIC CUTS TO TRANSFORM THE BODY INTO CHROMED ARMOUR FIT FOR THE NEXT LEVEL WOMAN. TAKE A STEP INTO THE ARCHIVE CIRCA ’95 WHEN THIERRY MUGLER’S GOLD PLATED BODY ARMOUR PAINTED THE ULTIMATE PICTURE OF HIGH GLOSS FUTURISM. 

A decade later new cuts have refined futurism in mouldable forms that morph contours by displacing conventional seams. Sleeve seams fall away when neoprene enters the game and mixed synthetics bend and ply under the tight knit stitch of Acne’s baby blue blazer. In a continuous metal plated flow, Acne and Proenza Schouler mix in super soft leather to a heavy metalled heel. Like a soft collision of nature’s future forward molecules, Acne’s sculptural heel takes a on a life form akin to volcanic molten lava frozen in time. Elie Saab and Dior handbags encounter a curved Art Deco revival in seam lines and curved handles that rehash that era’s forward thinking focus. Elie Saab jewelry drops sculptural neck pieces of delicate abstraction. The new cut spectrum ranges from Gareth Pugh’s caged creations and Iris Van Herpen’s 3D elaborately printed sculptures to Stella McCartney organic clean cuts. Her tweed trousers and knit sweaters rise and pleat in asymmetrical drapes that factor in a wearable non-uniformity. Avant garde means non-conforming and it is those sculpted lines exactly with which this season’s spirit goes against the grain to cut away any ounce of over-complication. The avant garde of now may best give rise to a design focus that innovates through a simplified future forward clean cut.

Photo:

© Acne Studios, Stella McCartney, Proenza Schouler, Elie Saab, Christian Dior

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