THIS SEASON HAS MANY SIDES AND BLACK IS CLOAKING THE MULTIFARIOUS FACADE. THE SPECTRUM IS VAST AND LEAPING INTO A SEA OF FAITH ENAMORED SYMBOLS AND RITUALISTIC TALISMANS IS EQUALLY AS ENTICING AS THE ROMANCE THAT IDITES VICTORIAN SCRIPTS CARVED IN BLACK VELVET DÉVORÉ.
Black on black surges the fine line that brings Goth back from the brink of subculture. Darkness goes cyber as of late - could the heavy metal subtext be a modern say on security? Alexander Wang took that stance by interpreting bulletproof vests and hunting jackets alongside Japanese Lolitas in platform creepers to the referenced vocal notes of Marilyn Manson and Kiss. Wang’s chain fringes have set the mood and once over the Gothic threshold there’s no looking back. This season’s dark side truly is a crossover, but romance remains entwined. Silk jacquard vined throughout Alexander McQueen’s garden of gorgeous decay. Sarah Burton sought a lush bloom for this collection’s fine lines of silk threads and tissue thin leather. McQueen’s Gothic romance halo had sublime poetry hooked to the rise and fall of the dark rose. All faiths congregate with Givenchy’s Victorian Latina covered in facial jewels and discreet religious symbols that curled in tandem to the black velvet dévoré dress that opened the show. Twisted tales and dark dreams pulsed through Marc Jacobs’ Requiem for a Dream soundtrack which called in the spirit of a brilliant soul - iconic Diana Vreeland embodied in grommets, fine fabric studs and patent leather gloves. Anthony Vaccarello kept his words finely tuned and forever sleek. Geometric belts, studded collars, and out of sync cuts pulled cloaked silhouettes out from the vault. Punk crossed over with Saint Laurent’s bad girl decked in tattered crinoline, a black biker and Siouxsie Sioux cat eyes. The pendulum swings back to tribal for an ultimate sacrifice that has Gareth Pugh’s warriors in leather breastplates, sprawling gowns, capes and headpieces that vouch for conquest. Chained and plated with distinction stands no ultimatum, the purest armor against this season’s dark side is to boldly and furiously leap into it.