WE REVEL IN DELIGHT AT ITEMS THAT HOLD A MEMORY LINE BETWEEN NOTES FROM THE PAST AND WORDS OF TODAY - ISN’T THE GREATEST ALLURE OF THE OLD FASHIONED ALL ABOUT THE STORY? IN SETTING THAT MOOD, THIS SEASON BRINGS ABOUT A CONTEMPORARY SHIFT. MORE THAN ORNAMENTATION ALONE, REIMAGINING ANTIQUITY IS ALL UP TO THE ARTISTRY OF THE WEARER.
Alessandro Michele’s Gucci girl is at the junction of old fashioned meets new romantic and her ring jeweled knuckles top off her heirloom pom poms, crochet and brass buttons to pull past lives out from the fall layers. The Prada woman walks contemporary with a twist, as if at odds with anything over-the-top modern or glitch. Her otherness anchors a vintage wisdom among her choice of cropped culottes, kitten heels and opera gloves mixed in with a pastel and herringbone palette. Acne has tailoring thickly stitched and there is no holding back from maximal embellishments to extend a high waist and super slouchy beret. A step from Prada’s neoprene double breasted suit, Dior fast forwards suiting with a boxy cut and the slick sheen from a patent leather boot reveals this season’s new forms to be so much more than dusty colored tweeds. Chloé brings a new mood to tailoring altogether, a masculine military take on the illusive side. This is the beauty of the new old fashioned - a new wing of classic walks into the room. Atmosphere plays an equally important role in bringing a character to life and as such, Erdem washed the collection with the lavish lines of old interiors where fine brocades and guipure lace settled among the regal. Chanel extended the ambiance into a brasserie, where the girls took to hanging out among a glossy social ensemble of headbands and pearl harnesses. The saloon’s tweeds and bowties took another old fashioned twist that brought Marc Jacobs a smoky speakeasy vibe and set an even richer artistic mood.