RICCARDO TISCI IS A TRUE STORYTELLER. WHETHER HE DESIGNS HAUTE COUTURE OR READY-TO-WEAR, AFTER A DECADE AT THE HELM OF THE HOUSE OF GIVENCHY, HE HAS ASSERTED A CLEAR LINE TO BRING HIS VISION OF CUT AND CLOTH TO LIFE.
Dipping back into the mood of Givenchy’s Spring/Summer 2016 show installation in New York, we recall a contemplative mood with a show brought from Paris to the Big Apple on the 14th anniversary of 9/11. We whisk back into a deeply imaginative and spiritual created world with the sound of live chanting monks and a story line that was as narrative as past season’s. It was also Tisci’s 10th anniversary at Givenchy and with a store opening in New York right before the show, the presentation marked more than one milestone. It set a sign of remembrance that made this collection come to live, and in tune with this reflective mood we refreshed our memories by witnessing several Haute Couture moments of past seasons. We could spot dresses from the Couture Spring 2012 collection and artfully decorated faces by Pat McGrath who built upon his Fall/Winter 2015 work. White, Ivory and Black, degraded coloured feathers and a whole lot of lace let everyone stand in awe, this season anew. But looking closer, 2012 was not the only season to be relived here.
Starting his time travel with his Spring Couture 2007 collection, we discovered Joan Smalls in an origami look alike chiffon gown floating over the runway for SS16. Followed by the Fall 2007 Couture line we saw again a peplum jacket matched with dégradé ostrich feather trimmings. Taking us straight into the season of Haute Couture 2009, we met old friends in form of masculine tuxedos and memorable ostrich feathers, alongside a section of extraordinary fringe-work on gowns for fall. We then entered the year 2011, where we were re-introduced to exquisite Couture moments of pureness and beauty. And with a palpable déjà-vu, we find ourselves in the Haute Couture Spring 2012 line-up. A dress devoted to crocodile skin, individually cut and sewn together one by one, only this time spotted in a ready-to-wear collection. Another gown, effortlessly draped, drops off the shoulders to renew our memories.
Ever since his first collection, a mystical aura has been surrounding his collections. No matter if he narrates about goddesses or mythologies from reimagined lands, his melancholic yet romantic way of expressing his vision through ingenious couture staples is one-of-a-kind. This throwback did not have an already-seen-that effect, indeed it felt like a conceptual time travel through Tisci’s unique vision of Couture; beyond worth remembering.