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08.03.2015 - Carolin Petersen

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Paris Summary Day5

DARKNESS, REDUCTION OF VOLUME AND A DEBUT WERE THE MAIN ISSUES OF THE DAY. A BOYISH ATTITUDE THAT RAN LIKE A GOLDEN THREAD THROUGH THE COLLECTIONS WAS THE UNIFICATION.

In terms of romance very few can match Haider Ackermann. His sensual, almost dreamt collections leave you in an illusory world – normally. For fall the Belgian designer moved his aesthetics to a darker side and introduced masculine looks that indicated timelessness and everyday wearability.
Jonny Johansson of Acne Studios followed an idea of reducing volume. Oversized coats got a quite fierce makeover with rope cinched darts. Compatible with the rough treatment the collection was driven by boyish looks that were distinguished by a playful mix of fabric and colour.
The new guy at Nina Ricci, Guillaume Henry, applied what he established at Carven over the past five years and gave the overly feminine and precious brand a cool and casual touch. However, this does not mean that Nina Ricci’s DNA was tackled, it only got an extra portion of – guess what? – boyish charm.
If today’s designers have their way for Fall Winter 2015, you better join the boy’s club!

Photo:

© Imaxtree

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