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06.03.2015 - Carolin Petersen

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Paris Summary Day3

ELECTRICITY, EXUBERANTLY HUED CLOTHES, ARCHITECTURE AND ADVENTURES SET THE TONE FOR THE THIRD DAY OF PARIS FASHION WEEK. ALL THESE POWERFUL COMPONENTS TURNED OUT TO DELIVER HIGHLY EXCITING COLLECTIONS.

Carven’s nice Parisienne got an energetic twist. The new designer, Adrien Caillaudaud, and his partner Alexis Martial “electrolyzed” with lean cuts, high-waisted pants and strong 1960 influences. The outcome was - as promised - young, fresh and very dynamic.
At Balmain Olivier Rousteing searched the archives for the 1970 period and borrowed Yves Saint Laurent’s iconic muse Lulu de la Falaise as a source of inspiration. Colour blocked lavish tones, glimmering fringe, series of bell-bottomed Palazzo pants and bodycon lace pieces revived the glamorous 70s disco era – true to the original.
The master of monumentalism, Rick Owens, stated Frank Lloyd Wright’s Hollyhock house as a starting point. The Mayan-influenced architecture became visible through graphical cutting parts, applications and sculptural draping. Gold and silver foiled faces that seemed like masks underlined Owen’s avant-garde vision and created another connection to the ancient Maya-culture. Embellishments like sequins and fur frills came as a shock, since they are the last thing you would expect from the expert of dark, radical fashion.
At Lanvin Alber Elbaz was in a sentimental mood and created a collection linked to his birth town Casablanca and the entire country Morocco. Leather harnesses, goat hair, tassels and passementerie decoration as visual regalia of his homeland embellished the portrait of an adventuress with theatrical, yet modern attire.
Nostalgia, avant-garde, 70s glam or electric Parisian style – day 3 saw some very distinct shows emerge. Common to all of them was that every collection showed a strong image of the designer’s characters. Particular in style as they are, surely each one of them will find their devoted followers.

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© Imaxtree

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