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05.03.2015 - Carolin Petersen

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Paris Summary Day2

EROTIC FEVER, GROUNDED GLAMOUR, A 90TH BIRTHDAY, AND FINALLY ICELANDIC VOLCANOS AND ICEBERGS – THE SECOND DAY OF PARIS FASHION WEEK COULDN’T BE MORE DIVERSIFIED.

At Lemaire you could sense the cheer for a change. Christoph and his partner Sarah-Linh Tran imagined their women “more dangerous” and “less melancholic” than before. Eroticism was created through bare shoulders, daring cleavage and more bare skin than common at Lemaire. The mix with masculine fabrics like tweed added some off-handedness to the show.
Dries van Noten opted for “Deluxe Bohemia” – his speciality. This time the subline was “Grounded glamour”, apparent through combat canvas in the mix with precious brocade and opulent embroideries, worthy of a grande dame. Now that his eponymous retrospective has arrived to his hometown Antwerp, the Belgian designer seemed to look back to the beginning of his career and by doing so, picked up some of the successes of the early Dries van Noten era.
Alessandro dell’Acqua almost did the same for the house of Rochas. On the occasion of its 90th birthday he went through the early archives of the brand and implemented his findings to the current collection. In that manner a black and white 1934 photography of a Rochas evening ensemble with graphic bird motif was reimagined as a print. The additional use of checks and tweed contributed to the subtle and charming retro note of the show.
The owner of Vionnet, Goga Ashkenazi, and her design team turned north for inspiration. The elegance of Icelandic volcanos and Greenlandic icebergs was translated to flowing satin or lava-splattered jacquard. All of that to show “the beauty of rotting processes and decay”, as Goga stated after the show.
The perfect conclusion for this day of alternating fashion is that change, backsight and change of place only do well – especially when it comes to style.

Photo:

© Imaxtree

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