THE FOURTH DAY OF PARIS FASHION WEEK SAW A NEW KIND OF CAMOUFLAGE, SUPER HIGH-WAISTED JEANS, BEWITCHED REPLICAS AND AN ULTRA-MODERN TAKE ON THE ARCHIVES.
Raf Simons started at Dior with a little black dress, which was a bit fallacious. Only the spotted booties gave a little hint of the patterned and colourful collection that was to follow. Dresses, coats, a body stocking and as already mentioned the shoes were decorated with a pattern that was something in between animal and 70s wallpaper print, or a “new kind of camouflage” as Simons stated. Cropped man-tailored pantsuits and flowing mesh twin-sets stepped in line, only to be topped by a variation of the first look – a little fur dress.
Isabel Marant remained with the cool girls and stuck to her trademark - ethnic inspired pieces with a French touch. Silk peasant blouses, cable knit sweaters and nautical stripes teamed up with tribal motifs. Watch out for the ultra high-waisted jeans, for sure they are going to be another Marant bestseller.
Hardly any other show was as feverishly anticipated as the one of Maison Martin Margiela by Galliano. The show notes “A fashion lo-fi: like Polaroids inflected with acid dreams.” made even more curious. The surprising outcome was a bewitched mix of true Galliano and the avant-garde house of Margiela. The new creative director remade, remodelled and reconstituted classic Margiela pieces and managed to apply his own DNA, visualized not least through askew images of his favourite muse, Marchesa Casatis.
Another muse was the opener of Balenciaga. Lady Gaga started with a performance and gave way for a collection that was deeply influenced by the archives of the Haute Couture house. Alexander Wang thought about the original clientele – the aristocrats and society women. However, he didn’t forget about the new ones. Wang created a collection undertaken by the classic silhouette of the cocoon coat, rounded shoulders or bubble skirts and included very modern elements like black leather belts for collars and chunky boots or striped scarfs.
Either true to the archives, the trademark or the own DNA, the respective creative directors composed magnificent collections that are not comparable in style, but in the beautiful execution.