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07.03.2016 - Marie Danker

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PARIS DAY 6

TRIBALISM CAST A SPELL OVER PARIS YESTERDAY. FROM FAR-FETCHED IDEAS CREATING NEW ROOTS AT BALENCIAGA TO EVIDENT SYMBOLISM AT GIVENCHY AND AFRICAN IMPACTS AT AKRIS, THE SIXTH DAY HAS SEEN CLANS APLENTY.

Yesterday, Demna Gvasalia debuted his first collection for the couture house Balenciaga. There was a recognisable dramaturgy in his line-up that started with cautious shades of grey continued with colourful interludes and bursted into a floral bouquet of playful dresses. Windbreakers, trenchcoats and leather jackets pealed off the shoulders and were essential takes on signature styles made for the modern Balenciaga woman. Cocoon shapes, asymmetric layers and bias cuts shaped the Céline woman later that day. Must haves? The blue leather coats and bum bags that decorated the pleated shirtdresses and were catching our eyes immediately. Roland Mouret continued with referencing the 70’s and more precise the singers Stevie Knicks and Kate Bush. But instead of a retro revival, Mouret introduced stretch lace and velvet outings that are to become fall’s essentials. Akris’ understated and minimalistic glamour came to live by African inspirations this time. Sunset oranges and shades of sand walked next to braided leathers and the looks were monochrome most of the time. Travel is a theme that we cannot deny to expect from Hermès and this season, Akris came pretty close to its motif. Speaking of travelling, after 10 years at Givenchy, Riccardo Tisci said he marked an end with his show in New York last season to refresh for Fall/Winter 2016. Tribalism returned in form of Egyptian symbolism with a new composition. Black and white graphics, strict military touches, snakeskin and leopard patterns were united in his looks. Tisci’s collection was all about the eclectic mix.

Photo:

© Imaxtree

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