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04.03.2016 - Marie Danker

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PARIS DAY 3

WANDERLUST, BIKER CHIC, MENSWEAR INFLUENCES AND GRUNGE REFERENCES HAVE SHAPED THE THIRD DAY OF PARIS FASHION WEEK. WHILE SOME LABELS TRIED NEW DIRECTIONS, OTHERS EXTENDED THEIR OWN GROUNDS.

Chloé referenced Anne-France Dautheville, travelling across Europe and the Middle East on a motorbike in the 70’s. Freedom and wanderlust met carefree biker chic on Chloé’s runway and after all it was a collection that we will be wearing come the festival season. At Carven, Adrien Caillaudaud and Alexis Martial grabbed a bit of biker chic, some 60’s influence and sci-fi fabrics and cuts to put it all together to create a collection that feels just right for Fall 2016. Ann Demeulemeester’s Sébastien Meunier invited his female clients into a mens world translating its clothes pretty well into womenswear. Masculine influences and most of all black let us enter an addictive and somewhat depressing world at the same time. Olivier Rousteing’s impressively strong Balmain Army turned out to be tender for the fall season ahead. Well, actually the models channelled Kim Kardashian - big time! Pale blue and blush shades from head to toe, Kendall Jenner turning blonde and Kanye sitting front row. Not to forget the extended curves on body skimming silhouettes, curvy is the new thing at Balmain.

Rick Owens’ Mastodon collection revealed his concerns about the environmental change (and future catastrophe?) Models were cocooning from hair to toe but still, it was a light and positive minded collection with white shades and pastel hues. His creative avant-garde strength has turned this Fall line into an attractive rebellion. We must admit, that the Lanvin Atelier has done a good job with its Fall/Winter collection, but in a different way and without many references to Elbaz’ Lanvin. Still, when it comes to wearability and colours, this outing might not reach Alber’s established fan base but it will surely find its own. Vetements’ school uniforms had a rebellious 80’s touch displaying aggressive statements and shrunken shoulders, made to look like they were restricting the models torsos. A somewhat gothic touch came through due to the fact that Gvasalia claimed to be in a dark mood due to the happenings in Paris while he was designing. But now, we are even more curious to see what he comes up with for his Balenciaga debut.

Photo:

© Imaxtree

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