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18.02.2016 - Marie Danker

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NEW YORK DAY 7

IT RAINED, IT SNOWED AND IT WAS SUPER GREY AND COLD OUTSIDE IN NEW YORK UNTIL NOW, BUT TURNING OUR THOUGHTS TOWARDS YESTERDAY’S SHOW VENUES THE DAY TURNED OUT TO BE SUNNY, COLOURFUL AND CONVENIENTLY WARM. THE SEVENTH DAY SEEMS TO BE THE MOST CHEERFUL UNTIL NOW.

Futurism vs. romantic, architectural cuts and technical fabrics met delicate details and embellishments; desirable kitsch could not have been more powerful at Delpozo yesterday. It was a show that lived from the label’s signature language of couture-level cuts and colour block combinations, perfected with subtle quirkiness. Jason Wu brought us back to earth at Boss. By experimenting with deconstructed cuts and patterns he surely upgraded the classic label whilst respecting its heirloom. Supersized we found ourselves at DKNY where Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne defined the new menswear inspired womenswear shape. Is DKNY turning into a unisex label? And back to pure feminism, Marchesa took us on a red carpet journey. Gowns! Each more beautiful than the other one and as far as the eye can see, we were introduced to artful craftsmanship. An artful continuation was spotted on the runway of Anna Sui, but here it was more about “pop drama” and artist inspired prints rather than embellishments. And while we are already speaking of art, Proenza Schouler staged a show “about control and release” influenced by Frank Stella’s analytical paintings and objects. Deconstructive tailoring and technical knits resonating in A-line silhouettes might have made it seem more process drafted than repetitive; a strategy that only identifies with Proenza Schouler.

Photo:

© Imaxtree

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