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16.02.2016 - Marie Danker

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NEW YORK DAY 5

AND JUST AS FAST AS NEW YORK HIT THE RUNWAY, THE FIFTH DAY HAS COME TO AN END ALREADY. TAKING A LOOK BACK, IT CERTAINLY WAS THE MOST DIVERSE AND CHRONOLOGICAL DAY SO FAR. STARTING WITH PURE MINIMALISM AND DAYTIME STAPLES WE WERE INTRODUCED TO SEDUCTIVE LINGERIE AND EVENING WEAR APPROACHING THE NIGHT.

Monochromaticity was obviously the word to kick off the day at The Row. Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen presented their sleekest and most pristine collection to date. Expensive and luxurious without being opulent seems to be the key phrase that the sisters reinvent season after season. Not quite monochromatic but in a similar colour range, the New York based label 3.1 Phillip Lim turned utilitarian. Even though the idea was “Lady bosses running through the streets of Shinjuku in Tokyo”, the collection played around with masculine-feminine tension, always aware of a slightly British touch. Thom Browne invited us to take a seat at Washington Square a hundred years ago yesterday. Deconstructed tailoring met Alice in Wonderland and it did not even look weird. In fact, it was a surprising and refreshing take on Browne’s signature, one that is a true exception.

And in tune with approaching the night, Reem Acra payed tribute to the femme fatale with a strong focus on eveningwear. The collection was infused with delicate burlesque lingerie. Bringing the women to the fore that “we all want to be” the outing was seductive, mysterious and above all precious. Continuing along to expect gowns, we encountered a surprise at Zac Posen. Eveningwear made daytime-ready was the key. Ruby and sapphire shades gave depth and importance to his outings and made his relaxed approach to fall appear more elegant than ever. And while some designers experimented with their new lines, Rosie Assoulin has managed to develop a style that leaves enough space to be put forward season after season without being repetitive. Ruffled, draped, tied and appropriately exaggerated she went along with putting her collection to the next level, and most importantly locked it into the hearts of her clientele.

Photo:

© Imaxtree

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