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27.02.2016 - Marie Danker

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MILAN DAY 3

MILAN’S THIRD DAY WAS ALL IN FOR THROWBACK MOMENTS. WE WERE INVITED TO REVISIT THE 80’S ERA AND SIGNATURE SILHOUETTES FROM FASHION’S GIANTS THAT LEFT US HOPING FOR DIRECT RUNWAY-TO-CONSUMER SALES.

The day started by welcoming back Diesel Black Gold, which runway shows took place in New York for the past years. Andreas Melbostad developed a strong focus on clean shapes and indeed we couldn’t be distracted from colours. Signature black, white and navy underlined the new vibe that Diesel brought to Milan yesterday. Following up on Emporio Armani’s emoji show opener from the label’s SS16 collection, fall was made for “high-tech heroines.” 80’s inspired graphics decorated everything from intarsia knits to blazers and accessories. Autumn is all up for throwbacks and this is exactly what we got to see at Sportmax. The collection had a touch of Proenza Schouler and Marni here and another one of Céline there but still, mixed together it looked refreshingly new. The day went on with distinctive bohemian touches at Etro. Revisiting the mid 90’s music-wise when Veronica Etro studied at Central Saint Martin’s, this collection delivered flashbacks to her freedom of creation and expression, a way of designing that she luckily has not lost. Tod’s leather, fur and Intarsia quality knit invited us into a sporty world with a 70’s street style appearance that carried with it a nonchalance signature. The label is dressing the winter season with an unmistakeable touch of Italian taste. The idea of “a woman’s power – for every kind of women” shaped the collection at Donatella Versace’s outing last night. Last season’s military line-up continued to take the leap in black and navy and this time, bursted into an alpine-like theme that ran throughout the collection. Sharp and leg-bearing as always, but this time accompanied by more sexiness.

Photo:

© Imaxtree

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