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24.02.2016 - Marie Danker

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MILAN DAY 1

GOODBYE LONDON, HELLO MILAN! THE FIRST DAY IN ITALY’S FASHION METROPOLIS LET US EXPECT THE UNEXPECTED. FROM GUCCI’S RHIZOMATIC WAY OF THINKING TO DUNDA’S BEST SHOW FOR CAVALLI SO FAR, THE FIRST DAY LEFT NO WISHES OPEN FOR MILAN’S DIVERSE FASHION CROWD.

Gucci’s rhizomatic scores made Michele’s Fall/Winter 2016 line-up an uncontrolled development. Unexpected compositions were free of orientation and continuation but still connected his offers amongst each other. His thought; in order to achieve change, thinking has to be rhizomatic. Michele’s taste for Gucci definitely is a change and his skilful hybridisation certainly let us expect the unexpected. Alberta Ferretti on the other hand lives from the expected. We saw signature lace, tulle, embroideries and silks, all mixed up to create a red-carpet-ready sweetness. Lingerie detailing met delicate velvets. Sometimes beauty is enough.

Later on that day we witnessed No 21’s Alessandro Dell’Acqua shaping his collection by merging rough grunge with delicate prettiness. Floral prints were combined with chunky flats and finished up with studded satins. It was a collection that left no wishes open for both sides. Fausto Puglisi followed up on his pre-Fall collection and sent street-ready cowgirls down his runway. New to his outing was the approach to knits and outerwear, a category we would love to see more. We already saw designers channelling 70’s glam rock on the runways but Peter Dundas is the master of translating this trend into the here and now. His second line for Roberto Cavalli saw patchwork furs combined with lace dresses and lurex scarves. It was a bit last season Emilio Pucci, but so much better.

Photo:

© Imaxtree

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