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17.09.2015 - Marie Danker

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New York Day 7

WITH THE END OF NEW YORK FASHION WEEK APPROACHING, DAY SEVEN SAW THE DEBUT OF THE PUBLIC SCHOOL DUO DAO-YI AND MAXWELL OSBORNE. FROM A ROMANTIC FLORAL WORLD AT DELPOZO TO DOWN-TO-EARTH AT BOSS, THIS DAY PERFECTLY SUMMARIZED WHAT FASHION HAS IN STORE FOR US NEXT SPRING.

Sculptural shapes and vibrant hues infused Delpozo’s dreamy floral world with an energetic twist. It was a couture-like collection with signature fairytale pieces brought into the real world. Speaking of real life, Jason Wu concentrated on tailored daywear for Boss, giving the house’s signature suit a thorough makeover. From fringes to organza sleeves to sophisticated layering, he beautifully inserted a new love for detail.

In spite of all the beautiful collections that the day brought forward, anticipation for the Public School duo’s debut collection for DKNY clearly moved this show into center stage yesterday. Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne invited for a 90s throwback of pinstripe suits and details. Remembering the casual idea that Donna Karan started from, the designer’s really seem get it right from the beginning. Silhouettes were slightly oversized and sporty, bringing that street vibe to the fore. Back to the question whether the first collection of the Public School design duo for DKNY went down well with everyone? We are pretty optimistic after a debut that exemplified tremendous respect for the tradition that has shaped house’s aesthetics.

Keren Craig and Georgina Chapman’s Marchesa found inspiration in the skies presenting beautiful feathered and floral signature gowns. It is clear that Marchesa already owns the season’s most magical red carpet moments. At Anna Sui, later in the day, we saw another floral collection that, different to the previous ones, had a sporty and less couturey touch. Beach essentials in vibrant colours brought an Hawaiian feeling to New York, not only because of the flower chains. It’s simply what you need for Island life.

Holding on to recent innovations with texture, feather decoration and tailored asymmetry, Proenza Schouler's Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough, successfully took their work to the next level once again. It is quite rare to spot this many signature pieces within one signature collection.

 

 

Photo:

© Imaxtree

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