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22.09.2015 - Marie Danker

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London Day 4

THE FOURTH DAY OF LONDON FASHION WEEK MADE IT CRYSTAL CLEAR THAT SPRING/SUMMER 2016 IS GOING TO BE SLIGHTLY DARK, HISTORICALLY INSPIRED AND ABOVE ALL DEFINED BY A ROMANTIC REALITY.

The day started abstract with Roksanda, who sent a geometric puzzle in pastel hues down the runway. The show was defined by an asymmetric aesthetic that could not have been more romantic. Erdem also picked up the idea of romance, however taking it into a darker realm. The victorian inspired flouncy dresses had floral embroideries and seemed oh so pretty until we heard about the “Prairie Madness” that Erdem’s collection was inspired by. The designer’s historical approach to the Homestead Act and the sickness and psychological illness it brought was even mirrored in the model’s pale faces. The designer is a master of creating great atmospheres and dressing his characters. But even with this background information, the outfits felt undoubtedly  alive.

Christopher Bailey never fails to deliver respectful collections successfully keeping Burberry’s heritage in mind. We saw lace dresses and signature biker jackets and of course, the all time favourite trench coat. Bailey truly knows how to transform tradition into fashion forwardness. 

Christopher Kane in the meantime introduced a woman who is crazy in love. And crazy it was indeed. From spray prints to sexy cut out dresses to plastic insets, Kane mixed it all up and managed to still hold a line whilst Peter Pilotto is redefining his, giving up on being the ultimate print designer. This summer season he showed us how to handle textures and plain colours. Midi lengths were the main focus, introduced in the form of flouncy dresses and tops made out of seersucker textures. It was a collection perfectly made for hot summer nights. 

Was Giles flirting with Elizabethan-era fashion this season? As usual, his artistic approaches to historical moods were overwhelming. We saw a collection with lots of signature showpieces that heavily reminded of Queen Elizabeth I, brought to life in this decade. The day went on with Joseph who, in a less historical and more contemporary way, showed menswear-touched-womenswear, successfully blurring the lines between the genders.

Photo:

© Imaxtree

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