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20.09.2015 - Marie Danker

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London Day 2

AS SOFT AND MINIMALIST AS THE START OF LONDON FASHION WEEK, THE MORE ECCENTRIC AND COLOURFUL IT DEVELOPED THROUGHOUT THE SECOND DAY. WE SAW SURPRISING CHANGES AT SIMONE ROCHAS AND GARETH PUGH AND A PREMIERE ON THE VERSUS RUNWAY. 

Jonathan William Anderson’s collection was all about creativity and the essence of fashion. Playing and experimenting with different ideas, he translated them into eccentric yet wearable looks. It was retro-futuristic at some point and turned into a line-up that we did not know we needed, until we saw it. Bondage practises were not the first thing coming to mind when looking at Simone Rocha’s spring collection. It looked feminine, tender and somewhat royal. But upon closer inspection, we spotted knot techniques and cross-body straps that made it more obvious that the Japanese photographer Araki was part of Rocha’s inspirational process. None-the-less it was subtle: the tender hues made the collection look pretty rather than sexual.

What happened to Gothic Gareth Pugh? For Spring/Summer 2016 the London based designer literally showed off money. But different from what we expected, it was not all about luxury, instead it was more fun. Clown masks and the signature colour red dominated the runway. Clothes were surprisingly wearable and screamed for a party night out. Money was translated into clothes in form of sequins on panties and sleeves. We loved seeing Pugh’s humorous side. More of it please! Versus Versace was on the London schedule for the very first time this season. Guest Creative Director Anthony Vaccarello introduced a show that was more Versus than Versace however. He went for all black looks most of the time and skipped the vibrant Versace colours. He also opted to premier floral prints and denim, which showed up across his runway. We could definitely spot a strong Vaccarello focus in the silhouettes and cut out dresses, but the designer still found a clear and respectful way to divide the labels.

Photo:

© Imaxtree

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