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04.10.2015 - Marie Danker

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Paris Day 5

PARIS FASHION WEEK IS AT ITS PEAK AND SO ARE THE COLLECTIONS THAT WE HAVE BEEN SCANNING ON THE FIFTH DAY. FROM COLOURFUL SURPRISES TO SPORTY TAKES ON EVENING WEAR TO MILITARY LINE-UPS AND SCULPTURAL PIECES, THIS DAY COULD NOT HAVE BEEN MORE VERSATILE.

The usually dark and moody Haider Ackermann has brightened up his collection with a colour play of vibrant yellow and green shades. Flowing drapings and leather pieces made this collection suitable from daytime to nighttime.

Military but without uniformity the day went on with David Koma’s Mugler. Navy blue turned into Khaki and ended up in black always decorated by a small use of metal details. But whereas this collection left room for interpretation, Jonny Johannsons outing for Acne Studios could not have been more obvious. Electric guitars were decorating blazers with strong shoulders and trousers and made it pretty clear that the designer was channelling the 80s and 90s music culture for the upcoming season.

Elie Saab is the master of evening gowns. For Spring/ Summer 2016 he surprised us with sporty takes on his glamourous signature. Bomberjackets and even a track suit have been sent down the runway. It was glamourous, of course but the mix was different.

Vivienne Westwood has staged an invitation to an activist march for her show goers to join her at the People’s March for Climate, Justice and Jobs in London in November. Paying tribute to Venice, the city that might be sinking due to climate change, the collection perfectly merged Venetian carnival looks with daytime pieces one could wear to march.

Less wearable and very sculptural we moved from Westwood to Kawakubo. The one designer who has grown by creating against expectations and wearability introduced a heavy sculptural collection for Comme des Garçons this season. Even though it is pretty debatable if we need it for summer, we know she is the one who has grown against all odds.

Photo:

© Imaxtree

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